Beginner's guide: How to sew with knits like a pro

Sewing with knits can be an intimidating task for beginners. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have stretch, which can make them tricky to cut and sew. However, with a few tips and techniques, you can learn to work with knits like a pro.

First, it’s important to choose the right needle and thread for sewing knits. Since knits are stretchy, you’ll need to use a ballpoint needle, which is designed to slip between the fabric’s fibers rather than piercing them. Choose a lightweight polyester thread that has some stretch to it as well.

Next, it’s essential to prepare your fabric before sewing. Knits have a tendency to curl at the edges, so it’s a good idea to stabilize them before cutting. You can use a lightweight interfacing or stay tape along the edges to prevent stretching and curling.

Tip: When cutting out your pattern pieces, be sure to use weights or pins instead of stretching the fabric. This will ensure that your finished garment hangs properly and maintains its shape.

Finally, when it comes to sewing with knits, proper stitch selection and tension are crucial. A straight stitch will not work well on knits, as it has little stretch and can break when the fabric stretches. Instead, opt for a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch, which will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. Adjust your machine’s tension to achieve the perfect balance between stretch and durability.

With these tips in mind, you’ll be able to confidently sew with knits and create beautiful, professional-looking garments. Remember to practice and experiment with different techniques to find what works best for you. Happy sewing!

Why Sewing with Knits is a Great Skill to Master

Sewing with knits can be incredibly rewarding and opens up a whole new world of possibilities for your sewing projects. Here are a few reasons why mastering the art of sewing with knits is a great skill to have:

Versatility: Knit fabrics come in a wide range of styles, weights, and textures, making them suitable for various garments and projects. From t-shirts and sweatshirts to dresses and activewear, knits can be used to create a variety of comfortable and stylish clothing pieces.
Comfort: Knit fabrics offer stretch and flexibility, allowing for comfortable and easy-to-wear garments. Sewing with knits ensures that your finished products will have the perfect amount of give and will move with your body.
Ease of Care: Unlike many woven fabrics, knits often require less ironing and are less prone to wrinkling. Additionally, many knits are machine washable, making them low-maintenance and ideal for everyday clothes.
Quick Projects: Sewing with knits can often be faster than working with woven fabrics. The stretchy nature of knits means that you can often skip time-consuming steps like adding zippers or buttons.

When sewing with knits, it’s important to use the right techniques and tools to ensure professional-looking results. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Choose the Right Needle: When sewing with knits, it’s important to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles are designed to gently push the fabric fibers apart, rather than piercing through them, which helps prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage.
Use the Right Stitch: Most sewing machines offer stretch stitches or a zigzag stitch, which are ideal for sewing with knits. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.
Invest in a Walking Foot: A walking foot is a useful tool when sewing with knits. It helps to feed the fabric evenly through the machine, preventing stretching or shifting as you sew.
Experiment with Seam Finishes: There are several options for finishing seams in knit fabrics, including serging, zigzag stitching, and using a twin needle. Experiment with different techniques to find the one that works best for your project.

With a bit of practice and the right tools, sewing with knits can become a fun and rewarding part of your sewing repertoire. So don’t be afraid to dive in and start incorporating knits into your next sewing project!

Benefits of sewing with knits

When it comes to sewing projects, knits offer a range of benefits that make them a popular choice for many sewists. Here are some of the advantages of sewing with knits:

Stretch and comfort: Knit fabrics are known for their stretch, which makes them incredibly comfortable to wear. Whether you’re making clothing items like dresses, t-shirts, or leggings, the stretch in the fabric allows for a better fit and enhances ease of movement.
Ease of sewing: Unlike woven fabrics, knits do not fray, which means you don’t have to worry about finishing the raw edges. This makes sewing with knits a lot easier and quicker, especially for beginners.
Color and pattern options: Knit fabrics come in a wide range of colors and patterns, allowing you to be creative with your sewing projects. Whether you prefer solid colors, stripes, florals, or prints, there’s a knit fabric out there to suit your style.
Wrinkle resistant: Knit fabrics are less prone to wrinkling compared to woven fabrics. This makes them a great choice for travel or for clothing items that are frequently washed and worn.
Versatility: Knit fabrics are versatile and can be used for various sewing projects, from casual wear to activewear. They are also suitable for making accessories, such as scarves, hats, and headbands.

In summary, sewing with knits provides stretch, comfort, ease of sewing, a variety of color and pattern options, wrinkle resistance, and versatility. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist, incorporating knits into your sewing projects can open up a whole new world of possibilities.

Choosing the Right Knit Fabric for Your Project

When it comes to sewing with knits, one of the most important factors in achieving professional-looking results is choosing the right fabric for your project. Knit fabrics come in a variety of types and weights, each with its own unique characteristics. Here are some factors to consider when selecting knit fabric for your sewing project:

Weight: Knit fabrics can range from lightweight to heavy. Consider the weight of the fabric based on the intended use of your project. Lighter knits are great for t-shirts and summer garments, while heavier knits are suitable for sweaters and winter wear.
Stretch: Knit fabrics have varying degrees of stretch, ranging from minimal to extremely stretchy. Think about the amount of stretch you need for your project. For example, if you’re sewing leggings, you’ll want a fabric with a high percentage of stretch.
Content: Knit fabrics can be made from various fibers, such as cotton, polyester, rayon, and blends. Consider the properties of different fiber types and choose one that aligns with your project’s requirements. Cotton knits are breathable and comfortable, while polyester knits are durable and wrinkle-resistant.
Pattern: Consider the type of knit pattern that will best suit your project. Some common knit patterns include jersey, rib knit, interlock, and sweater knit. Different patterns have different textures and appearances, so choose one that complements your design.
Color and Print: Knit fabric comes in a wide range of colors and prints. Consider your personal style and the intended use of your project when choosing color and print. Solid colors are versatile and can be easily matched with other garments, while prints add visual interest and can make a statement.

Remember to always prewash and preshrink your knit fabric before sewing to prevent any unwanted surprises after your project is complete. It’s also a good idea to make a test swatch and sew a sample to ensure that the fabric behaves as expected and works well with your sewing machine.

By considering these factors and selecting the right knit fabric for your project, you’ll be on your way to sewing with knits like a pro and creating garments that are comfortable, stylish, and long-lasting.

Essential Tools and Supplies for Sewing with Knits

When it comes to sewing with knits, having the right tools and supplies is essential for achieving professional results. Here are some key items that every beginner should have in their toolkit:

Sewing Machine: A good quality sewing machine with stretch stitches is a must for working with knits. Look for machines that have a zigzag stitch, a stretch stitch, and an overlock stitch.
Ballpoint Needles: Knit fabrics are prone to snags and runs, so using a ballpoint needle is important. These needles have a rounded tip that allows them to slide between the fabric’s fibers instead of piercing them.
Stretch Needles: For particularly stretchy knits, stretch needles are recommended. These needles have a deeper groove on the front side, which helps prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage.
Twin Needle: A twin needle is a great tool for achieving professional-looking hems on knit garments. It creates parallel rows of stitches on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side.
Walking Foot: A walking foot is useful when working with knit fabrics, as it helps to feed the fabric evenly through the machine. This prevents stretching or distorting the fabric as you sew.
Seam Ripper: Mistakes happen, and a seam ripper is essential for undoing stitches without damaging the fabric.
Pins: Good quality pins are essential for keeping fabric layers together while sewing. Look for ballpoint pins specifically made for knits, as they are less likely to damage the fabric.
Fabric Scissors: A pair of sharp fabric scissors is essential for cutting knit fabrics. Be sure to keep them separate from paper scissors to ensure they stay sharp.
Measuring Tape: Having a measuring tape on hand is crucial for taking accurate measurements and ensuring a proper fit.
Marking Tools: Choose marking tools that work well on knits, such as washable fabric markers or tailor’s chalk.

These are just a few of the essential tools and supplies to get you started on your journey of sewing with knits. With the right equipment, you’ll be able to tackle any knit fabric project and achieve professional-looking results.

Prepping Your Fabric and Machine for Knit Sewing

Before you start sewing with knits, it’s important to properly prepare your fabric and machine to ensure successful results. Here are some steps to follow:

Pre-washing your fabric: It’s advisable to pre-wash your knit fabric before cutting and sewing to prevent shrinkage after the garment is finished. Simply machine wash the fabric using a gentle cycle and mild detergent, then tumble dry on low heat or air dry. This will also help to remove any excess dyes or chemicals that may be present on the fabric.
Handling your fabric: Knit fabrics can be delicate, so it’s important to handle them with care. Avoid stretching or pulling the fabric excessively, as this can distort the shape and cause uneven seams. Instead, handle the fabric gently and support it evenly when cutting and sewing.
Choosing the right needles: When sewing knits, it’s best to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have a rounded tip that glides between the knit fibers without piercing or causing damage. Using a regular sewing needle may result in skipped stitches or runs in the fabric.
Thread selection: Opt for a quality polyester or polyester-covered polyester thread when sewing with knits. These types of thread have some stretch, which is ideal for sewing stretchy fabrics. Avoid using cotton thread, as it can break easily and cause seams to pop.
Tension adjustments: Knit fabrics require a different tension setting compared to woven fabrics. It’s recommended to lower the tension slightly to ensure the stitches properly penetrate the fabric without causing any puckering or stretching. Test the tension on a scrap piece of fabric before starting your project.
Stabilizing seams: To prevent stretching and distortion, consider stabilizing the shoulder seams, neckline, and armholes with clear elastic or fusible knit interfacing. This will help keep the shape of the garment and provide added stability to areas that may stretch during wear.
Test stitching: Before sewing your final seams, it’s always a good idea to test your stitch settings on a scrap piece of fabric. This will allow you to adjust the stitch length and width if needed and check that the seam stretches properly without breaking.

By following these steps to prep your fabric and machine, you’ll be well on your way to sewing with knits like a pro!

Understanding Knit Grainlines and Stretch

When working with knit fabrics, it’s important to understand their grainlines and stretch. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have a unique structure that allows them to stretch in multiple directions. This stretchiness is what makes them comfortable to wear and perfect for garments like t-shirts, dresses, and leggings.

There are three main types of knit grainlines:

Lengthwise grainline: This grainline runs parallel to the selvage or raw edge of the fabric. It typically has the least amount of stretch and is often used for the vertical parts of a garment, like the center front and center back.
Crosswise grainline: This grainline runs perpendicular to the selvage. It usually has more stretch than the lengthwise grainline and is often used for the horizontal parts of a garment, like the neckline or waistline.
Diagonal grainline: This grainline runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. It has the most stretch and is often used for parts of a garment that need to contour or stretch with the body, like sleeves or cuffs.

When sewing with knits, it’s essential to pay attention to the grainline and stretch of the fabric. Here are a few tips:

Before cutting your pattern pieces, make sure to align the grainline arrow on the pattern with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. This will ensure that the garment hangs correctly and the stretch is in the right direction.
Test the stretch of your fabric by gently pulling it in both directions. This will give you an idea of how much it stretches and how it will behave when worn.
Use the appropriate stitch for sewing knits, such as a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the seams.
Consider using a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing with knits. These needles have a rounded tip, which prevents them from piercing through the fabric fibers and causing damage.
When hemming knits, use a stretch stitch or twin needle to maintain the fabric’s stretchiness and prevent the hem from popping when worn.

By understanding the grainline and stretch of knits, you’ll be able to sew them like a pro and create comfortable, well-fitted garments.

Mastering Essential Stitches for Sewing with Knits

When sewing with knits, it’s important to use the right stitches to ensure a professional-looking finish and a garment that will stretch with the fabric. Here are some essential stitches to master when sewing with knits:

Straight Stitch

The straight stitch is the most basic stitch and is typically used for sewing seams. When sewing with knits, it’s best to use a longer stitch length to allow the fabric to stretch. A stitch length of 3.0 to 4.0 is recommended.

Zigzag Stitch

The zigzag stitch is commonly used for sewing knits as it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitch. Set your machine to a medium width zigzag stitch, around 2-3mm, and adjust the length according to the stretchiness of the fabric. This stitch is especially useful when sewing seams that need to stretch, such as shoulder and side seams.

Twin Needle Stitch

A twin needle stitch creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side. This stitch is great for hemming knits as it provides extra stretch and a professional finish. Make sure to use a twin needle designed for knits and adjust the tension and stitch length as needed.

Overlock Stitch

If your sewing machine has an overlock or serger stitch, it’s ideal for sewing knits. This stitch finishes the raw edges of the fabric while also providing stretch. An overlock stitch can be used for sewing seams and finishing edges, giving your knit garments a neat and professional look.

Stretch Stitch

Some sewing machines have a stretch stitch option, which is specifically designed for sewing knits. This stitch resembles a lightning bolt and provides extra stretch and flexibility. It’s recommended to use this stitch for sewing seams on highly stretchable fabrics or areas that require a lot of movement, such as armholes and necklines.

Remember to always test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing on your actual project. This will allow you to adjust the stitch settings and ensure a secure and stretchy stitch. With practice and patience, you’ll soon be sewing with knits like a pro!

Tips and Tricks for Successful Knit Sewing

Use the right needle: When sewing with knits, it’s important to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have a rounded tip which helps to prevent snagging and creates clean, even stitches.
Pre-wash your fabric: Before sewing with knit fabric, it’s advisable to pre-wash it to remove any shrinkage. This will ensure that your finished garment doesn’t distort after its first wash.
Stabilize seams: To prevent stretching and distortion, it’s helpful to stabilize seams with a strip of fusible interfacing or clear elastic. This will provide extra support and help your seams lay flat.
Choose the right stitch: When sewing knits, consider using a stretch stitch, such as a narrow zigzag or a triple straight stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the seams.
Test your tension: Before sewing your project, test your machine’s tension on a scrap piece of fabric. Adjust the tension if necessary to ensure that the stitches are balanced and not too tight or too loose.
Use a walking foot: When sewing stretchy knits, a walking foot can help to evenly feed the fabric through the machine. This foot has feed dogs on the top and bottom, which reduces fabric shifting and produces more accurate stitches.
Try using a double needle: For a professional-looking finish, consider using a double needle for hemming. This creates parallel rows of stitching on the outside of the fabric and a stretchy zigzag stitch on the inside.
Experiment with different stitches: Knits offer the opportunity to experiment with decorative stitches. Try using a decorative stitch on the hem or neckline for added interest and a unique touch.
Mark your fabric with clips or pins: Instead of using traditional pins, which can leave holes in knits, consider using fabric clips or ballpoint pins. These tools won’t damage the fabric and will keep everything securely in place.
Practice and have patience: Sewing with knits may take some practice to master. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempts don’t turn out perfectly. With patience and perseverance, you’ll soon become a pro at sewing with knits!

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Sewing with Knits

Working with knit fabrics can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re new to sewing with them. However, by avoiding some common mistakes, you can achieve professional-looking results. Here are some mistakes to watch out for when sewing with knits:

Using the wrong needle: Knit fabrics require a special needle, such as a ballpoint or stretch needle, to avoid causing runs or snagging the fabric.
Not using the right stitch: Straight stitches can cause the seams to break when the fabric stretches. Instead, use a stretch stitch, zigzag stitch, or a twin needle for added flexibility.
Skipping the pre-washing step: Knit fabrics can shrink, especially natural fibers like cotton. It’s important to pre-wash the fabric before cutting and sewing to prevent any unwanted shrinking later on.
Not stabilizing the fabric: Some knits tend to stretch out and become distorted during sewing. Use stabilizing techniques such as staystitching, clear elastic, or iron-on stabilizer to prevent this from happening.
Stretching the fabric while sewing: Pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing can lead to uneven seams and distortion. Instead, guide the fabric gently through the machine without applying any tension.
Not testing the stretch: Different knits have varying degrees of stretch. Always test the stretch of your fabric before sewing to adjust the tension and stitch length accordingly.
Ignoring the grainline: Knit fabrics have a grainline just like woven fabrics. Make sure to align your pattern pieces with the grainline to ensure proper fit and drape.
Not using the right thread: Knit fabrics require stretchy threads such as polyester or woolly nylon to accommodate the fabric’s elasticity. Using a regular thread can cause the seams to snap.
Not hemming properly: Knit fabrics tend to unravel easily, so it’s important to finish your hems properly. Use a stretch stitch or a double needle to create a clean and secure hem.

Avoiding these common mistakes will help you achieve great results when sewing with knits. With a bit of practice and patience, you’ll soon be able to sew comfortable and stylish knit garments like a pro!

FAQ:

What is the best machine to use for sewing knits?

The best machine to use for sewing knits is a serger. However, if you don’t have a serger, a regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch can also work.

What type of needle should I use for sewing knits?

For sewing knits, it is best to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These types of needles are designed to prevent skipping or breaking threads when sewing stretchy fabrics.

How do I prevent my knit fabric from stretching while sewing?

To prevent your knit fabric from stretching while sewing, you can use pins or clips to hold the fabric in place. Additionally, you can try using a walking foot or a dual feed foot on your sewing machine to help evenly feed the fabric through the machine and prevent stretching.

Can I use a regular sewing machine foot for sewing knits?

Yes, you can use a regular sewing machine foot for sewing knits. However, using a walking foot or a dual feed foot can help prevent the fabric from stretching or puckering as you sew.

What is the best stitch to use for sewing knits?

The best stitch to use for sewing knits is a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch while maintaining a strong hold. A straight stitch can cause the fabric to pucker or break when stretched.

Tips for Sewing with Knits