If you’re new to sewing with knit fabric, you may be feeling a little intimidated. Knit fabric can be trickier to work with than woven fabric, but with a few tips and tricks, you’ll be sewing with knits like a pro in no time.
Choose the Right Needle
One of the most important steps in sewing with knit fabric is choosing the right needle. While a universal needle may work for some projects, it’s best to use a ballpoint or stretch needle designed specifically for knits. These needles have a rounded tip that slips between the knit fibers without causing them to break or create runs.
Keep in mind that the quality of your needle can also impact your sewing results, so be sure to use a new, sharp needle for each project.
Select the Proper Stitch
When sewing with knit fabric, the choice of stitch can make a big difference in the final result. While a straight stitch may work for some projects, it can create tension and cause the fabric to pucker or stretch. Consider using a stretch stitch, such as a zigzag stitch or a triple stretch stitch, which allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches.
It’s also important to test your stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your final project to ensure that the tension and stitch length are appropriate.
Use the Right Tools
A few additional tools can make sewing with knit fabric easier and more professional. A walking foot can help to evenly feed the fabric through the machine, reducing the risk of stretching or puckering. A rotary cutter and mat are also helpful for cutting out knit fabric, as they allow for smooth, even cuts without distortion.
With the right needle, proper stitch selection, and the use of helpful tools, you’ll be well on your way to sewing with knit fabric like a pro. Don’t be afraid to practice and experiment, and soon you’ll be confidently creating your own knit garments and accessories.
Choosing the Right Knit Fabric
When it comes to sewing with knit fabrics, choosing the right type of fabric is crucial for getting the best results. Here are some key factors to consider when selecting a knit fabric:
- Weight: Knit fabrics come in a variety of weights, ranging from lightweight to heavyweight. The weight of the fabric will determine the drape and stretchiness of the final garment. Lightweight knits are perfect for summer tops and dresses, while heavyweight knits are great for cozy sweaters and winter garments.
- Stretch: Knit fabrics have varying degrees of stretch, which can affect how the fabric will behave when sewn. Some knits have four-way stretch, meaning they stretch both horizontally and vertically, while others have two-way stretch, stretching only in one direction. Consider the stretch requirements of your pattern and choose a fabric that matches.
- Fiber Content: Knit fabrics can be made from a variety of fibers, including cotton, polyester, rayon, and spandex. Each fiber has its own properties and characteristics, so choose a fabric that suits your desired outcome. Cotton knits are breathable, polyester knits are durable, and spandex knits offer excellent stretch and recovery.
- Print: Knit fabrics come in a wide range of prints and patterns, from solids and stripes to floral and geometric designs. Consider the style and purpose of your garment when selecting a print. Busy prints may hide any imperfections in sewing, while solid colors can showcase the fit and silhouette of the garment.
Before purchasing a knit fabric, it’s always a good idea to feel the fabric and stretch it to get a sense of its texture and stretchiness. Additionally, make sure to pre-wash and dry the fabric according to its care instructions, as knits can shrink or change in texture after washing.
By considering these factors and experimenting with different types of knit fabrics, you’ll be well on your way to sewing with knit fabrics like a pro!
Preparing Your Knit Fabric for Sewing
Before you start sewing with knit fabric, it’s important to prepare the fabric properly to ensure the best results. Here are some steps you can follow:
- Pre-wash the fabric: Knit fabrics can shrink, so it’s important to pre-wash them before sewing. Follow the fabric care instructions to wash and dry the fabric.
- Press the fabric: After washing, press the fabric with an iron to remove any wrinkles. Make sure to use a low heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric.
- Layout and pattern placement: Lay out the fabric on a flat surface and determine the pattern placement. Keep in mind the direction of the stretch, if applicable.
- Prepare pattern pieces: Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the layout diagram. Pin them in place or use pattern weights to keep them steady.
- Cutting the fabric: Use fabric scissors or a rotary cutter to cut along the pattern lines. Take care to cut smoothly and accurately.
- Finish the edges: Knit fabric can fray easily, so it’s a good idea to finish the edges before sewing. You can use a serger, a zigzag stitch, or a narrow hemming technique.
- Test the stitch: Before sewing your project, test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric to make sure the tension and stitch length are correct for your particular knit fabric.
- Use the right needle: Choose a needle specifically designed for knit fabrics, such as a ballpoint or stretch needle. This will help prevent the fabric from snagging or getting damaged.
- Adjust the presser foot pressure: If your sewing machine allows it, adjust the presser foot pressure to accommodate the stretchiness of the fabric. This will help feed the fabric smoothly through the machine.
- Take your time: Sewing with knit fabric requires patience and attention to detail. Take your time to sew slowly and carefully, being mindful of the fabric’s stretch and handling it gently.
By following these steps to prepare your knit fabric, you’ll be well on your way to sewing like a pro and creating beautiful garments and projects. Happy sewing!
Essential Tools for Sewing with Knit Fabric
Sewing with knit fabric requires some specialized tools to ensure that you achieve professional-looking results. Here are some essential tools that every beginner should have:
- Stretch Needles: These needles are specifically designed for sewing with knit fabric. They have a rounded tip that prevents them from piercing and damaging the fabric.
- Ballpoint Pins: Ballpoint pins are also designed for knit fabric. They have a rounded tip that slides between the knit stitches without causing snags or runs.
- Walking Foot: A walking foot is a sewing machine foot that evenly feeds the fabric through the machine. It helps to prevent stretching and puckering, ensuring that your seams lay flat.
- Stretchy Thread: Regular thread can break easily when sewn on knit fabric. Choose a stretchy thread, such as woolly nylon or polyester stretch thread, to ensure durability and flexibility.
- Tissue Paper: When sewing knits, you can place tissue paper under the fabric to help stabilize it and prevent it from stretching as you sew. Tear away the tissue paper once you have finished sewing.
- Twin Needle: A twin needle is used for creating professional-looking hem finishes on knit garments. It creates two parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side.
Having these essential tools will make your sewing experience with knit fabric much easier and more enjoyable. They will help ensure that your finished garments have clean and professional-looking seams.
Mastering the Basic Stitches for Knit Fabric
When sewing with knit fabric, it is important to use the appropriate stitches to ensure a professional-looking result. Here are the basic stitches that you need to master:
- Straight Stitch: The straight stitch is the most basic stitch used in sewing. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and use it for seams that do not require stretch. Make sure to use an appropriate needle for knit fabric to prevent skipping stitches.
- Zigzag Stitch: The zigzag stitch is ideal for sewing knit fabric because it has a bit of stretch. Set your machine to a medium-width zigzag stitch and adjust the stitch length according to your desired tension. This stitch allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.
- Double Needle Stitch: Using a double needle can create a professional-looking finish on hems and seams. It produces two parallel rows of stitches on the right side and a zigzag pattern on the wrong side. Use the straight stitch setting but make sure to use a twin needle suitable for knit fabric.
- Stretch Stitch: Some machines have a stretch stitch setting specifically designed for sewing knit fabric. This stitch combines a straight stitch with a zigzag stitch to provide stretch and stability. It is great for sewing seams that need to withstand frequent stretching, such as on activewear or swimwear.
- Triple Stitch: The triple stitch is similar to the straight stitch but with three parallel rows of stitches. It is used for sewing seams that require extra strength, such as on high-stress areas or heavy fabrics. The triple stitch provides durability and prevents the seams from coming apart easily.
Remember to always test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before starting your sewing project. This will help you determine the appropriate tension, stitch length, and needle size for your specific fabric. Practice these stitches on different types of knit fabric to gain confidence and skill in sewing with this versatile fabric.
Handling Stretchy Knit Fabric with Ease
Working with stretchy knit fabric can be intimidating for beginner sewists, but with a few tips and tricks, you’ll be able to handle it with ease.
1. Choose the right needles and thread: When sewing with knit fabric, it’s important to use the correct needles and thread. Opt for ballpoint needles, as they have a rounded tip that helps prevent snagging or breaking the fabric. Use a polyester thread, as it has some stretch to it and won’t break when the fabric stretches.
2. Use a stretch stitch: Most sewing machines have a stretch stitch option, which is perfect for sewing knits. This stitch has a slight zigzag pattern that allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. If your machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, you can use a narrow zigzag stitch instead.
3. Test the stretch: Before sewing your garment, test the stretch of the fabric. This will give you an idea of how much the fabric will stretch when worn. Simply cut a small strip of fabric and stretch it to see how it behaves. This will help you determine if you need to make any adjustments to your pattern or choose a different size.
4. Use a walking foot: A walking foot is a helpful tool when working with knits. It helps to feed the fabric through the machine evenly, preventing stretching or warping of the fabric. If you don’t have a walking foot, you can use a regular foot, but be sure to hold the fabric taut as you sew to prevent stretching.
5. Make use of stabilizers: If you find that your knit fabric is too stretchy or difficult to handle, you can use stabilizers to make the sewing process easier. Stabilizers, such as tear-away or water-soluble stabilizers, can be placed under the fabric to provide extra support and prevent stretching while sewing.
6. Finish seams with a serger or zigzag stitch: To prevent fraying and provide additional stretch, finish the raw edges of your seams with a serger or zigzag stitch. This will help your garment withstand repeated stretching and washing.
7. Press carefully: When pressing knit fabric, be sure to use a low heat setting and a pressing cloth. Never iron directly on the fabric, as this can cause it to stretch or warp. Gently press the fabric, being careful not to distort the shape or stretch the seams.
8. Practice: Sewing with knit fabric takes practice, so don’t be discouraged if your first few projects don’t turn out perfectly. Keep experimenting and learning from your mistakes, and soon you’ll be sewing with knits like a pro!
By following these tips, you’ll be able to handle stretchy knit fabric with ease and create beautiful garments that are both comfortable and stylish.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Knit Fabric Sewing
Sewing with knit fabric can be challenging, but with some troubleshooting, you can overcome common issues that may arise. Here are some tips to help you troubleshoot and improve your knit fabric sewing:
- Skipped Stitches: If you notice that your sewing machine is skipping stitches while sewing with knit fabric, try adjusting the tension. Decreasing the tension slightly may help prevent skipped stitches.
- Uneven or Stretchy Seams: Knit fabric tends to stretch while sewing, resulting in uneven or stretched-out seams. To prevent this, use a walking foot or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. You can also stabilize the fabric by using a spray starch or stabilizer before sewing.
- Puckering: Puckering can occur when sewing knit fabric, especially if the tension is too tight. Adjusting the tension or using a ballpoint needle designed for knits can help reduce puckering.
- Wavy Hems or Necklines: Knit fabric can sometimes form wavy hems or necklines after sewing. To prevent this, use a stabilizer like stay tape or clear elastic when sewing these areas. This will help stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching out.
- Seam Slippage: Knit fabric has a tendency to slip or shift while sewing, resulting in misaligned seams. To prevent seam slippage, use pins or clips to secure the fabric layers together before sewing. You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch or a serger to secure the seams.
- Stretching Out of Shape: Knit fabric can stretch out of shape, especially if it is too thin or has a high stretch percentage. To prevent this, choose a knit fabric with a good recovery and avoid stretching the fabric while sewing. Test the fabric’s stretchiness before starting your project.
- Thread Breakage: If you experience thread breakage while sewing knit fabric, try using a ballpoint needle designed for knits. Also, ensure that the needle size is appropriate for the fabric weight. Using a polyester or nylon thread instead of cotton can also help reduce thread breakage.
- Bunching or Bulky Seams: If your seams are turning out bulky or bunching up, try using a thinner needle or reducing the number of fabric layers in the seam. You can also trim the seam allowance or use a zigzag stitch to reduce bulk.
By following these troubleshooting tips, you can overcome common issues and sew with knit fabric like a pro. Remember to practice and experiment with different techniques to find what works best for you!
Finishing Touches: Hemming and Seam Finishes for Knit Fabric
One of the final steps in sewing with knit fabric is achieving clean and professional-looking finishes. Hemming and seam finishes are essential to prevent unraveling and give your garment a polished look. Here are some techniques you can use:
Hemming Techniques:
1. Coverstitch Hem: A coverstitch machine is ideal for hemming knit fabric as it creates a stretchy and decorative finish. Fold the raw edge of the fabric towards the wrong side and secure it with pins or clips. Use a coverstitch machine to stitch along the edge, ensuring the fabric is flat and smooth.
2. Twin Needle Hem: If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can achieve a similar look using a twin needle. Fold the fabric towards the wrong side, press it in place, and secure it with pins or clips. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and attach a twin needle. Stitch along the folded edge, making sure both needles catch the fabric to create a parallel line of stitching.
3. Rolled Hem: A rolled hem creates a delicate and lightweight finish. Fold the raw edge of the fabric twice towards the wrong side, encasing it within the fold. Secure it with pins or clips and stitch close to the edge using a narrow and small zigzag stitch or a serger.
Seam Finishing Techniques:
1. Overlock Stitch: If you have a serger, use the overlock stitch to finish the raw edges of your seams. This stitch trims the excess fabric while enclosing the raw edges, preventing fraying. Simply sew along the edge of the fabric, guiding it through the serger.
2. Zigzag Stitch: If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag stitch is an alternative option. Set your sewing machine to a medium-width and medium-length zigzag stitch. Sew along the raw edges of the seam allowances to secure and prevent fraying.
3. French Seam: For a clean and neat finish on the inside of your garment, opt for a French seam. With wrong sides together, stitch the seam allowances with a narrow seam allowance. Then, trim the seam allowance close to the stitching and press it to one side. Finally, fold the fabric with right sides together, enclosing the raw edges, and stitch again with a wider seam allowance.
Remember to always test your chosen hemming and seam finishing techniques on scrap fabric before applying them to your final project. With practice, you will master these techniques and achieve professional results when working with knit fabric.
Taking Your Knit Fabric Sewing to the Next Level
Now that you’ve mastered the basics of sewing with knit fabric, it’s time to take your skills to the next level. With a few additional techniques and tips, you can elevate your projects and create professional-looking garments.
1. Experiment with Different Knit Fabrics
While jersey knit is a common choice for beginners, there are many other types of knit fabrics to explore. Try sewing with interlock, rib knit, or even sweater knits to broaden your horizons and create unique garments.
2. Use Specialty Needles
To prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage, invest in specialty needles designed for knit fabrics. Ballpoint or stretch needles are specifically made to sew through knits without causing runs or tears. Be sure to change your needle regularly to maintain optimal sewing performance.
3. Practice Seam Finishes
Adding seam finishes to your knit garments can enhance their durability and overall appearance. Try using a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch, or a twin needle to finish your seams. Test different techniques on scrap fabric to find the one that works best for the particular knit fabric you’re using.
4. Master Hemming Techniques
Hemming can be a challenge with knit fabric since it tends to stretch. To achieve a clean and professional finish, try using a twin needle or a coverstitch machine. These techniques create a double row of stitches that stretch with the fabric, preventing the hem from puckering or stretching out.
5. Experiment with Neckline and Sleeve Finishes
Instead of simply folding over and hemming the edge of a neckline or sleeve, consider adding a binding or a knit band for a more polished look. These finishes can add structure, prevent stretching, and give your garments a more professional appearance.
6. Incorporate Topstitching
Topstitching is not only decorative but also functional in knit fabric sewing. It helps to secure seams, prevent edges from rolling, and add structure to the garment. Experiment with different colors and thread weights to create visual interest and highlight certain details.
7. Use Stabilizers as Needed
If you’re working with particularly lightweight or stretchy knits, consider using stabilizers to prevent stretching or distortion during sewing. Tear-away or wash-away stabilizers placed beneath your fabric can provide additional support and make the sewing process easier.
8. Experiment with Pattern Alterations
Once you’ve gained confidence in sewing with knit fabrics, don’t be afraid to experiment with pattern alterations to customize your garments. You can modify the length, neckline, or silhouette to create a one-of-a-kind piece that fits your personal style.
By incorporating these tips and techniques into your knit fabric sewing projects, you’ll be well on your way to creating professional-quality garments that showcase your skills and creativity.
FAQ:
What are some tips for sewing with knit fabric?
When sewing with knit fabric, it is important to use the right needle and thread, as well as the proper machine settings. It is also helpful to use a walking foot, as it helps to feed the fabric evenly through the machine. Additionally, using a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch can help prevent the seams from popping when stretched.
What type of needle should I use when sewing with knit fabric?
When sewing with knit fabric, it is best to use a ballpoint needle or a stretch needle. These needles are designed to penetrate the fabric without causing snags or runs. They are also more flexible, which helps prevent skipped stitches.
Can I use a regular sewing machine to sew knit fabric?
Yes, you can use a regular sewing machine to sew knit fabric. However, it is important to use the proper needle and thread, as well as adjust the machine settings to accommodate the stretch of the fabric. Using a walking foot can also help ensure smooth and even stitches.
What type of thread should I use when sewing with knit fabric?
When sewing with knit fabric, it is best to use polyester thread or a thread specifically designed for stretch fabrics. These threads are more elastic and will stretch with the fabric, reducing the risk of popped seams. Cotton thread can be used as well, but it may not have as much stretch.
Should I prewash knit fabric before sewing?
It is generally recommended to prewash knit fabric before sewing, as it can shrink and change shape after washing. By prewashing, you can prevent any unexpected shrinking or stretching of your finished garment. However, be sure to check the fabric’s care instructions, as some knits may require special handling.
How do I prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing?
To prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing, you can use techniques such as staystitching or using stabilizing tape or spray. Staystitching is a line of stitching done just inside the seam allowance to stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching. Stabilizing tape or spray can also help keep the fabric in place while you sew.
What is the best stitch to use when sewing knits?
The best stitch to use when sewing knits is a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads. A straight stitch can be used for areas that don’t need to stretch, but it is important to reinforce the seams with a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch to prevent them from popping when the fabric is stretched.