Beginner's Guide: How to Sew Knit Fabrics Like a Pro

Knit fabrics are versatile and comfortable materials that can be used to create a wide range of clothing and accessories. However, sewing with knits can be intimidating for beginners. The stretchiness of the fabric and the potential for unraveling can make it tricky to work with. But fear not! With a few tips and techniques, you can sew knit fabrics like a pro.

One of the first things to consider when sewing with knit fabrics is the type of needle you use. A ballpoint or stretch needle is essential for working with knits. Unlike a sharp needle, which can cut through the fabric, a ballpoint needle pushes the fibers aside, reducing the risk of snags and runs. This ensures clean and smooth stitches without damaging the fabric.

Another important factor to keep in mind is the type of stitch you use. A straight stitch may work well for woven fabrics, but it can lead to popped seams and broken threads on knits. Instead, opt for a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads, providing durability and flexibility to your finished project.

Avoiding excess tension is crucial when sewing with knits. Too much tension can cause the fabric to pucker or stretch out of shape. To achieve the right tension, adjust the pressure settings on your sewing machine and test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your project. It’s also a good idea to use a walking foot, which helps to feed the fabric evenly through the machine and prevent stretching or distortion.

By following these tips and taking your time to practice and experiment, you’ll soon be able to sew knit fabrics with confidence. Whether you’re making a cozy sweater or a comfortable pair of leggings, sewing with knits opens up a world of sewing possibilities. So grab your needles and thread, and get ready to create beautiful garments that are both stylish and comfortable.

Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Knit Fabrics

When it comes to sewing, working with knitted fabrics can be a bit challenging for beginners. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have stretch and require special techniques to get professional-looking results. In this guide, we will walk you through the basics of sewing knit fabrics like a pro.

1. Choose the Right Needle and Thread

When sewing knit fabrics, it’s important to use the correct needle and thread. Opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle, as these are designed to penetrate the fibers of knits without causing damage. For thread, use polyester thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread, as they offer both strength and stretch.

2. Use a Stretch Stitch

Regular machine stitches may not provide enough stretch for knit fabrics, causing them to break or pop. Instead, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, such as a narrow zigzag or a triple straight stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

3. Test, test, test!

Before starting your project, it’s always a good idea to test your stitch and tension settings on a scrap piece of fabric. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments before sewing your actual garment. Test different stitch lengths and tensions to see which works best for your specific fabric.

4. Use Stabilizers for Tricky Areas

Some areas of your knit project may require additional stability, such as necklines or hems. In these cases, use stabilizers, such as lightweight knit interfacing or strips of fusible webbing, to reinforce the fabric and prevent stretching or sagging.

5. Finish the Seams

To prevent fraying and ensure durability, it’s important to finish the seams of your knit garments. You can use a serger or overlocker to create a clean and professional finish. If you don’t have access to one, try using a zigzag stitch along the edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.

6. Experiment with Different Stitches

Sewing with knit fabrics allows you to get creative with your stitches. Try experimenting with decorative stitches or using a twin needle for a professional-looking hemline. Don’t be afraid to try out different techniques to add interest and personality to your knit projects.

7. Take Your Time and Practice

Sewing knit fabrics may take a bit more time and practice compared to sewing with woven fabrics. Don’t get discouraged if your first few attempts don’t turn out perfectly. Keep practicing, be patient with yourself, and soon you’ll become a pro at sewing with knits.

Remember, sewing with knit fabrics is all about understanding the fabric’s unique characteristics and using the right techniques. By following these tips and practicing, you’ll be able to create beautiful and professional-looking garments with ease.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

When sewing knit fabrics, it is important to choose the right needle and thread to ensure successful and professional-looking results. Here are some guidelines to help you make the right choices:

Needles:

1. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle for most knit fabrics. These types of needles have a rounded tip which helps prevent the needle from piercing and damaging the fibers of the knit fabric.

2. For heavyweight knits, like sweatshirt fleece or double knits, choose a needle with a sharper point such as a stretch or universal needle. This will help the needle penetrate the fabric more easily.

3. It is important to use the correct needle size based on the thickness of your fabric. Generally, a size 70/10 or 80/12 needle works well for most knits. However, if you have a very fine knit fabric, you may need to go down to a size 60/8 needle, and for heavier knits, you may need to use a size 90/14 needle.

Thread:

1. Use polyester thread for sewing knits. Polyester thread has some stretch and is strong enough to withstand the tension that knits often require.

2. Consider using a slightly longer stitch length when sewing knits. This can help prevent the thread from breaking due to the stretch in the fabric.

3. Match the thread color to your fabric for a seamless look, or use a contrasting color for decorative purposes.

By choosing the right needle and thread for your project, you can ensure a successful sewing experience and achieve professional-looking results with knit fabrics.

Preparing the Fabric for Sewing

Before you start sewing with knit fabrics, it’s important to properly prepare the fabric to ensure successful and professional-looking results. Follow these steps to prepare your fabric:

Pre-wash the fabric: Most knit fabrics tend to shrink when washed, so it’s crucial to pre-wash your fabric before sewing. Launder it according to the fabric’s care instructions, and dry it as you would normally. This will remove any excess dye and shrink the fabric to minimize further shrinkage after sewing.
Press the fabric: After pre-washing, press the fabric using a low heat setting on your iron. Make sure to use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from direct heat. Pressing will remove any wrinkles and create a smooth surface for sewing.
Layout and pattern placement: Lay your fabric on a flat surface and ensure it is free from wrinkles or distortions. Take note of the fabric’s grain lines and stretch direction, as this will affect the fit and stretch of the finished garment. Position your pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain and stretch direction markers, and secure them in place with weights or pins.
Cutting the fabric: Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out your pattern pieces. Take your time and cut along the designated lines with smooth and even strokes. It’s important to cut accurately to ensure your garment pieces fit together correctly.
Securing the fabric: To prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing, it’s helpful to use various methods to stabilize it. You can use clear elastic, stay tape, fusible interfacing, or even a walking foot on your sewing machine. Experiment with different methods to find what works best for your fabric and project.

By properly preparing your fabric, you’ll ensure a smoother sewing process and achieve professional results when working with knit fabrics. Taking the time to pre-wash, press, and stabilize the fabric will make a significant difference in the overall quality and longevity of your sewn garments.

Making the Right Stitch Selection

When sewing knit fabrics, it is crucial to choose the right stitch to ensure that your seams are durable and have the right amount of stretch. Here are some stitch options and when to use them:

Straight Stitch: The straight stitch is the most basic stitch and is suitable for most knit projects. It provides a nice, clean finish and is ideal for sewing seams or hems that do not require a lot of stretch.
Zigzag Stitch: The zigzag stitch is commonly used for sewing knit fabrics because it allows for more stretch than a straight stitch. It is often used for attaching elastic or creating stretchy seams.
Triple Stitch: The triple stitch is a stronger version of the straight stitch and is ideal for sewing seams that require extra durability. It creates three parallel lines of stitching, providing reinforcement for areas of high stress.
Overlock Stitch: The overlock stitch, also known as the serger stitch, is a professional finish often used in knit garment construction. It trims the fabric edge while simultaneously stitching, preventing fraying and creating a clean, finished look.

When selecting the stitch, consider the fabric’s stretchiness and the level of durability required for the garment or project. It may be helpful to test different stitches on a fabric swatch before sewing the final seams.

Remember to adjust the stitch length and width settings on your sewing machine to suit the fabric and desired stretchiness. Practice on scrap fabric to find the best settings before starting your project.

Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabrics

When it comes to sewing with knit fabrics, there are some specific techniques that can help you achieve professional-looking results. Here are some important techniques to keep in mind:

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle: Knit fabrics are stretchy, so it’s important to use a needle specifically designed for them. Ballpoint or stretch needles have a rounded tip that slides between the knit fabric’s fibers instead of piercing them.
Use a stretch stitch or serger: When sewing knit fabrics, using a straight stitch can cause the seams to break when stretched. Instead, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or a serger if you have one. These stitches have built-in stretch that allows the seams to stretch along with the fabric.
Test your stitches: Before sewing your project, it’s always a good idea to test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric. This way, you can adjust the tension or stitch length if needed to ensure the best results.
Staystitch curved edges: Knit fabrics can be prone to stretching out when cut, especially along curved edges. To prevent this, staystitch the curves before sewing. Staystitching is a row of stitches placed just inside the seam allowance to stabilize the fabric.
Use a walking foot: A walking foot is a helpful tool when sewing knit fabrics. It helps to evenly feed the layers of fabric through the machine, preventing stretching and puckering. If you don’t have a walking foot, you can also use tissue paper or a strip of stabilizer under the fabric to help with feeding.
Add stabilizer to hems: Knit fabrics can sometimes stretch out when hemmed. To prevent this, use a stabilizer such as fusible knit interfacing or clear elastic. Apply the stabilizer to the hem allowance, then fold and stitch as usual.
Use a twin needle for hems: For a professional-looking hem on knit fabrics, consider using a twin needle. A twin needle creates two parallel rows of stitches on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side, allowing the hem to stretch.
Press and steam carefully: Knit fabrics can be sensitive to heat, so it’s important to press and steam them carefully. Always use a low heat setting on your iron and use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric. Avoid dragging the iron or applying too much pressure, as this can cause the fabric to stretch or distort.

By following these techniques, you’ll be able to sew knit fabrics like a pro and create garments that are comfortable and stylish.

Using a Walking Foot for Knits

A walking foot is a specialized sewing machine foot that helps to evenly feed and sew knit fabrics. It has a set of feed dogs on the top of the foot that work in coordination with the regular feed dogs on the sewing machine, resulting in more control and less stretching of knit fabrics.

Using a walking foot can help to prevent skipped stitches, uneven seams, and fabric shifting, making it an essential tool when sewing with knits. Here are some tips for using a walking foot for knits:

Selecting the right needle: When sewing knits with a walking foot, it is important to use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have a rounded tip that allows them to slide between the knit fibers without causing damage or creating large holes.
Adjusting the presser foot pressure: Most sewing machines have a presser foot pressure adjustment that can be changed to accommodate different fabric thicknesses. When sewing knits, it is recommended to decrease the presser foot pressure to prevent excess stretching and distortion of the fabric.
Using a longer stitch length: Since knit fabrics tend to stretch, it is advisable to use a longer stitch length when sewing them. A longer stitch length helps to reduce the amount of tension on the fabric, preventing it from becoming stretched out or distorted.
Testing on scrap fabric: Before sewing your actual project, it is always a good idea to test your settings and techniques on a scrap piece of fabric. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments and ensure that you achieve the desired results.
Supporting the fabric: When sewing with knits, it can be helpful to support the fabric as it feeds through the machine. You can do this by gently holding the fabric in front and behind the presser foot, guiding it through evenly.
Using the right stitches: There are several stitches that work well for sewing knit fabrics, including a straight stitch, a narrow zigzag stitch, and a stretch stitch. Experiment with different stitches to find the one that works best for your project.
Finishing the seams: After sewing your seams, it is important to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying. You can do this by using a serger, a zigzag stitch, or a stretch stitch. Alternatively, you can use a binding or a knit fabric tape to finish the edges.

By following these tips and using a walking foot, you can sew knit fabrics like a pro, achieving professional-looking results and garments that are comfortable and durable.

Finishing Techniques for Knit Garments

When sewing with knit fabrics, it is important to use the right finishing techniques to ensure that your garments have professional-looking and durable seams. Here are some common finishing techniques that will help you achieve just that:

Serging or Overlocking: One of the most popular finishing techniques for knit fabrics is serging or overlocking. This involves using a serger machine to sew and trim the seam allowances at the same time, preventing the edges of the fabric from unraveling.
Zigzag Stitch: If you don’t have access to a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine to finish the edges of your knit garments. Set your machine to a wide and short zigzag stitch to allow for stretch.
Topstitching: To give your knit garments a professional look, consider adding topstitching. This involves stitching along the outside of a seam, close to the edge, to hold the seam allowance in place and provide reinforcement.
Binding: Another finishing option for knit fabrics is binding. This involves using a strip of fabric to encase the raw edges of your garment. You can either use ready-made knit binding or create your own using a knit fabric.
Twin Needle Hem: For a clean and stretchy hem on your knit garments, consider using a twin needle. This creates two parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the wrong side, allowing the hem to stretch without breaking.
Facing: If you prefer a more structured finish, you can use facings on your knit garments. Facings are separate pieces of fabric that are sewn to the garment’s neckline or armholes to provide a clean, finished edge.

Remember to always test your finishing techniques on scrap fabric before applying them to your actual garment. This will help you determine the best settings and techniques for your specific knit fabric.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

When sewing knit fabrics, it is common to encounter some issues along the way. Here are some common problems you may face and how to troubleshoot them:

Skipped Stitches

If you notice that your sewing machine is skipping stitches while working with knit fabrics, there could be a few reasons for this issue:

Make sure you are using the correct needle size for the type of knit fabric you are using. A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended for most knit fabrics.
Check your thread tension. Adjust it if necessary, as tight tension can cause skipped stitches.
Try using a walking foot or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine to prevent the fabric from stretching and causing skipped stitches.

Puckering or Stretching

Puckering or stretching of the fabric can occur while sewing knit fabrics. Here’s how you can troubleshoot this issue:

Use the correct type of stitch for knit fabrics, such as a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch while maintaining a secure seam.
Ensure that your fabric is properly supported and guided while sewing. Use your hands or a fabric stretcher to gently guide the fabric through the machine without stretching it.
Consider using a stabilizer, such as a tear-away or wash-away stabilizer, to prevent puckering or stretching on delicate or lightweight knit fabrics.

Uneven Hemming

Getting a smooth and even hem on knit fabrics can be challenging. Here are some tips to troubleshoot uneven hemming:

Use a twin needle for hemming knits. This creates two parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric, resulting in a professional-looking finish.
Make sure to press the hem before sewing to ensure it lays flat and even.
Try using a stabilizer or interfacing on the hem to prevent it from stretching and becoming uneven.

Stretched Neckline or Armhole

When sewing necklines or armholes on knit garments, they can sometimes become stretched out. Follow these troubleshooting tips to avoid this issue:

Use stabilizing techniques, such as stay stitching or clear elastic, to prevent stretching on curved areas like necklines and armholes.
Handle the fabric gently when sewing and avoid pulling or stretching it as you sew.
Consider using a walking foot or a stretch stitch to help maintain the shape of the neckline or armhole.

By troubleshooting these common issues, you will be able to sew knit fabrics like a pro and create beautiful, professional-looking garments. Remember to practice and experiment with different techniques to find what works best for you and your specific projects.

Practice and Tips for Sewing Knit Fabrics

Working with knit fabrics can be a bit different from sewing with woven fabrics, but with some practice and the right techniques, you can achieve professional-looking results. Here are some tips to help you sew knit fabrics like a pro:

Choose the right needle: When sewing knits, it’s important to use a needle specifically designed for stretch fabrics. A ballpoint or stretch needle will help prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage.
Use the correct stitch: While a straight stitch may work for some knit fabrics, using a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch can provide more flexibility and prevent seams from popping. Experiment with different stitch options on a scrap of fabric to find the best one for your project.
Control the stretch: When sewing seams, make sure to gently pull the fabric on either side of the needle to help control the stretch. This will prevent the fabric from puckering or stretching out too much.
Use a walking foot or a dual feed system: Knit fabrics tend to stretch and shift while sewing. Using a walking foot or a sewing machine with a built-in dual feed system can help feed the fabric evenly and prevent stretching or distortion.
Finish the raw edges: Knit fabrics don’t fray like woven fabrics, but unfinished edges can still curl and stretch. Consider using a serger or a narrow zigzag stitch to finish the raw edges and give your project a more professional look.
Experiment with stabilizers: For particularly stretchy or slippery knits, using a stabilizer can help stabilize the fabric and make it easier to sew. Test different types of stabilizers on scrap fabric to find the best one for your project.
Take your time and practice: Sewing knits can be challenging at first, so don’t be afraid to practice on scrap fabric before working on your main project. Take your time and go slow to ensure accurate stitching and a neat finish.

Remember, practice makes perfect! With these tips and some hands-on experience, you’ll soon be sewing knit fabrics like a pro.

FAQ:

What are some tips for sewing knit fabrics?

When sewing with knit fabrics, it’s important to use a ballpoint or stretch needle, as regular needles can cause the fabric to snag and break. It’s also a good idea to use a walking foot to help feed the fabric evenly through the machine. Additionally, using a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch can help accommodate the stretch of the fabric.

How do I prevent my knit seams from stretching?

To prevent your knit seams from stretching, you can reinforce them with clear elastic or stay tape. Simply attach the elastic or tape to the seam allowance before sewing the seam, and it will help stabilize and support the fabric. Another option is to sew a row of straight stitches just inside the seam allowance before sewing the actual seam, as this will act as a stabilizer.

What types of stitches should I use when sewing knits?

When sewing knits, it’s best to use stitches that have some stretch. The most common stitches used for knits are the stretch stitch and the narrow zigzag stitch. The stretch stitch looks like a lightning bolt and allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. The narrow zigzag stitch is another good option, as it also allows for some stretch and flexibility.

Can I use a regular sewing machine to sew knit fabrics?

Yes, you can use a regular sewing machine to sew knit fabrics. However, it’s important to make some adjustments to the machine settings and use the proper needles and stitches. As mentioned earlier, using a ballpoint or stretch needle is important, as well as using a walking foot to help feed the fabric evenly. It’s also a good idea to do some test stitching on scrap fabric before sewing your actual project.

How do I hem knit fabrics?

When hemming knit fabrics, it’s best to use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. This will allow the hem to stretch with the fabric without breaking the stitches. You can also use a twin needle to create a professional-looking double row of stitches. It’s important to stretch the fabric slightly as you sew the hem to ensure it doesn’t pucker or gather.

Beginner’s Guide: How to Sew Knit Fabrics with Ease